Even though it is still 70 degrees for the next few days, it’s getting to be that time of year when we pull our boats out of the water and we get ready to put them to bed for the winter. So, this week I thought I would write about things that need to be done before you put the cover on and will get back to fishing topics next week. Every boat is different, and everyone has his or her own way of winterizing, but if this is your first year doing so it may be confusing to a point. First, I want to say, if there is ANYTHING you are not sure about, talk to a person at a marina or take your boat/outboard in and have the professionals winterize it. That being said, the biggest question I hear is should I fog the engine or not. Old timers have told me, years ago we never fogged their outboard because there was oil mixed in with the gas, and never had a problem in the spring. Their point being the cylinders were a ready lubricated I’m guessing. To be honest, I don’t remember my dad fogging our old outboard either, but I strongly suggest you take the time and fog the cylinders. There will be direction on the fogging oil can.

Here are the basic things you should know if winterizing your outboard yourself. A 2-STOKE OUTBOARD MOTOR. Add fuel stabilizer to the tank, put the muffs on the outboard’s intakes, turn the water on and when water is coming out of the discharge, start the motor and let it run for 5 to 10 minutes. Then disconnect the fuel line and while the engine is still running spray fogging oil into the carburetor or EFI system (check owner’s manual). This will cause the motor to cough and spudder. When the engine returns to running normal, let it run out of gas. Then remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into each cylinder, just tap the starter or pull the cord just enough to turn engine over and then replace the plugs. (OUTBOARD MOTOR OIL SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY 100HRS)

Here are the basic things for winterizing a 4-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTOR. This is when you will hear (IF YOU STORE A CAR, DO YOU FOG THE ENGINE)? YOU DO NOT. I know fishing guides that DO NOT fog their 4-strokes, and these people rely on their boat motor for income each year. But if you take your boat to a marina to be winterized and fogging is NOT necessary why is fogging part of their service? If you have your owner’s manual, I’m thinking it will tell you to fog your 4-stroke. TO FOG OR NOT TO FOG is the question. Whatever you decide to do, fogging is basically the same as the 2-stroke. Again, follow the directions on the can. (OUTBOARD MOTOR OIL SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY 100HRS)

Now, drain your lower unit by removing the lower screw on the right side of the outboard, then remove the top screw, (making sure you have both plastic washers on the screws), and the old oil will start to come out faster. Check the oil and if it is a milky color, replace the washers on the screws. Add new lubricant by placing the nozzle or fitting into the bottom hole and pump or squeeze the bottle until the oil starts coming out the top hole. Install the top screw but make sure the plastic washer is on the screw. Remove the fitting from the lower hole and quickly place the screw (with washer) you took out and tighten. Look for any metal shavings in the old oil and if you do find shavings, have the lower unit serviced. While your down there, check your propeller and hub for any damage.

THE INTERIOR.  I know people that will disconnect their battery’s and leave them in their boats during the winter. Again, some will tell you “Even if the boat is in an un-heated garage, disconnect the cables and the battery’s will be just fine”. Some other people will say, remove the batteries and make sure the water level is correct, if water level is down, add distilled water to reach normal level, make sure the batteries are fully charged and store them in an area where that won’t reach freezing temperatures. Then check and retain a charge during storage.

Remove ALL electronics and apply electronic grease to all plugs to prevent corrosion. Then this is a no-brainer. Clean the interior, seats carpet, live wells and inside all compartments. Here’s another no-brainer. Wash and wax the boat. Now for the cover. Spread dryer sheets around the boat and make sure your cover fits tight and is secured. I store my pontoon outside so after I put my cover on, I use shrink wrap around the base of the cover to keep it secured and keep critters out, and so far, this has worked well. If you are considering having your boat shrink wrapped, make sure it has proper ventilation or it could cause mildew due to moisture being trapped inside. I’ve been asked about the cost of shrink wrapping and I believe it is around $12 to $15 per foot.

That’s about it on winterizing a boat. Did I forget anything?
Again, if there is anything you are not sure of or are not comfortable doing, take your boat to a marina.